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Clothing appearance and fit: Science and technology

J Fan, W Yu, Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong and L Hunter, CSIR, South Africa

Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles No. 33

 - offers a critical appreciation of technological developments
 - incorporates user-friendly illustrations and photographs
 - valuable reference for students, researchers and professionals in the clothing and textile industries
 - discusses how clothing should be designed, manufactured and dressed for good fit and body image enhancement

Fashion and beauty have helped shape history and today more than ever, we find ourselves under increasing pressure to think about what we wear, what we look good in and how best to enhance our body shape and size. Behind this seemingly superficial industry, however, lies a technical thinking firmly grounded in science and technology. In one fully comprehensive book, Clothing appearance and fit: Science and technology provides a critical appreciation of the technological developments and scientific understanding of the appearance and fit of clothing. The authors bridge the science of beauty and fashion design with garment evaluation technology, garment drape and human anthropometrics and sizing.

The ten chapters of the book provide a detailed coverage of clothing appearance and fit. Chapter 1 considers body attractiveness and how it relates to clothing material and design parameters and discusses classical and contemporary theories of beauty. Chapters 2 and 3 present the industry’s techniques, methods and standards for assessing clothing appearance and fit and Chapters 4 and 5 review the research and development of objective measurement technologies for evaluating clothing appearance and fit. Fabric objective measurement, fabric properties and garment drape are covered in Chapters 6 and 7 and the R & D of body measurement, anthropometrics and sizing systems are detailed in Chapters 8 and 9. The final chapter reviews published work on garment design and pattern alteration for achieving good clothing appearance and fit.

This book is an essential reference for researchers, academics, professionals and students in clothing and textile academia and industry. It includes many industrial standards, techniques and practices.

Published in association with The Textile Institute

ISBN 1 85573 745 0
ISBN-13: 978 1 85573 745 7
September 2004
260 pages  234 x 156mm  hardback  
£145.00 / US$245.00 / €175.00
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About the authors

Dr Fan was awarded a PhD from the University of Leeds in 1989 and is now Associate Professor at the Institute of Textiles and Clothing at the Hong Kong Polytechnic University. He has published widely in the area of clothing technology and is world-renowned for his invention of the first sweating fabric mannequin “Walter”. He has also received the Distinguished Achievement Award of the US Fiber Society.

Professor Lawrance Hunter, Divisional Fellow (Manufacturing and Materials Technology) CSIR and Head of the post-graduate Department of Textile Science of the University of Port Elizabeth, South Africa, has been involved in textile R&D for almost 40 years and has published many papers at conferences and in journals. He was awarded the Textile Institute Warner Memorial Medal for his outstanding contribution to textile science and technology.

Dr Yu is an Associate Professor at the Hong Kong Polytechnic University. She was awarded a PhD from the University of Leeds in 1996. Her famous inventions include the 3D body scanner “Cubicam” for customised fit jeans and the first soft mannequin for pressure evaluation of intimate apparel.

Titles which may also be of interest:
Industrial cutting of textile materials
Sizing in clothing
Improving comfort in clothing
Engineering apparel fabrics and garments
Anthropometry, apparel sizing and design
Pattern cutting for clothing using CAD


Contents

Perception of Body Appearance and its Relation to Clothing
J Fan
 - Introduction
 - Beauty
 - Facial attractiveness
 - Body physical attractiveness
 - Body image
 - Modification of body appearance by dressing

Subjective Assessment of Clothing Appearance
J Fan
 - Introduction
 - Assessment of fabric surface smoothness
 - Assessment of seam appearance
 - Assessment of crease retention
 - Assessment of appearance retention of finished garments
 - Reliability of subjective assessment

Subjective Assessment of Clothing Fit
W Yu
 - Definition of fit
 - Influences on clothing fit
 - Testing methods for dimensional fit
 - Subject rating scales
 - Subjective fitting guide
 - Conclusions

Objective Evaluation of Clothing Appearance
J Fan, L Hunter and F Liu
 - Introduction
 - Objective evaluation of fabric wrinkling
 - Objective evaluation of fabric pilling
 - Objective evaluation of seam pucker
 - Objective evaluation of overall garment appearance

Objective Evaluation of Clothing Fit
W Yu
 - Introduction
 - Moiré optics
 - Algebraic evaluation of clothing fit
 - Clothing waveform
 - Pressure evaluation of clothing fit
 - 3-D Modelling of pressure fit
 - Conclusions

Fabric Properties Related to Clothing Appearance and Fit
L Hunter and J Fan
 - Introduction
 - Reviews
 - Fabric Objective Measurement (FOM)

Garment Drape
L Hunter and J Fan
 - Introduction
 - Reviews on drape
 - The measurement of fabric drape
 - Empirical prediction of static drape
 - Dynamic fabric drape
 - Seamed fabric drape
 - Modelling fabric and garment drape
 - Drape models in commercial CAD and Internet systems
 - Concluding Remarks

3-D Body Scanning
W Yu
 - Introduction
 - Global development of body scanners
 - Principles and operations of body scanning technologies
 - Benchmarking
 - Challenges of 3-D body scanning
 - Concluding remarks

Human Anthropometrics and Sizing Systems
W Yu
 - Terms and definitions
 - Traditional anthropometry
 - Historical development of sizing system
 - Latest national size survey using 3-D body scanner
 - International sizing
 - Principals of sizing systems
 - Conclusion

Garment Design for Individual Fit
M Y Kwong
 - Introduction
 - Pattern alteration for fit
 - Prediction of garment patterns from body measurements
 - Three-dimensional (3-D) apparel design systems for pattern generation and garment fit
 - Virtual fitting on the Internet

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