This item is in: Textile > Colouration and finishing

Industrial cutting of textile materials

I Vilumsone-Nemes, Consultant, Latvia

Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles No. 127

 - summarises good practice in cutting room operations
 - reviews initial steps such as unloading, sorting and quality control of materials and discusses subsequent operations from lay planning and marker making to fusing of cut components and final work operations
 - includes coverage of more intricate fabrics such as striped fabrics and fabrics with check, motif and border patterns, narrow lace and pile fabrics

A cutting room is a separate area in a clothing manufacturer where garment components are cut out. The accuracy and efficiency of cutting room operations is critical to all subsequent operations and to final garment quality. Drawing on the author’s extensive experience, Industrial cutting of textile materials summarises good practice in cutting room operations.

After an introduction, the author reviews initial steps such as unloading, sorting and quality control of materials. She then discusses subsequent operations from lay planning and marker making, through manual and automated spreading and cutting, to fusing of cut components and final work operations such as sorting cut components for sewing. Dr Viļumsone-Nemes also discusses marker making, spreading and cutting of more intricate fabrics such as striped fabrics and fabrics with check, motif and border patterns, narrow lace and pile fabrics.

Industrial cutting of textile materials provides essential knowledge about cutting processes to designers, technologists, and managers to help in improving product quality and in controlling production processes effectively.

Published in association with The Textile Institute

£125.00 / US$210.00 / €150.00

An e-book version of this title is available to purchase as part of a Collection or Pick n Mix or by Chapter. Visit Woodhead Publishing Online

About the author

Dr Ineta Vilumsone-Nemes has conducted academic research and worked in textile manufacturing for almost 20 years, including working with garment manufacturers from several European countries. She is now an independent consultant and lecturer in garment production technologies and management.

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Contents

Introduction to cutting room operations in garment manufacture
 - Introduction
 - Storage, registration and inspection of materials
 - Lay planning and marker making processes
 - The fabric spreading process
 - The fabric cutting process
 - The fusing of cut components
 - Final stages in cutting operations

Initial preparation and quality control of textile materials in textile cutting operations
 - Introduction
 - The unloading of delivered textile materials
 - Sorting and physical counting of the delivered textile materials
 - The storage of textile materials in a warehouse
 - The quality control of stored textile materials
 - Influence of textile faults on the industrial manufacture of garments

Lay planning and marker making in textile cutting operations
 - Introduction
 - The basic principles of the lay planning process
 - Automation of the lay planning process and cutting room operations
 - General characteristics of the marker making process
 - The influence of textile material properties on the marker making process
 - Placement of the pattern pieces of fusible components in a marker
 - The creation of interlining markers
 - The automated marker making process
 - Recommended links

Principles and methods of textile spreading
 - Introduction
 - General characteristics of the spreading process
 - Fabric spreading modes and their application
 - Dealing with different kinds of spread
 - Fabric quality issues

Manual spreading of textile materials
 - Introduction
 - Characteristics of the manual spreading process
 - Manual spreading process modes
 - Disadvantages of the manual spreading process
 - Equipment for manual spreading

Automated spreading of textile materials
 - Introduction
 - The spreading table
 - The spreading machine and its main parts
 - Control features in the spreading process
 - Semi automated and fully automated spreading processes
 - Spreading machine for tubular materials
 - Spreading modes in the automated spreading process
 - Automated fabric fault registration and management systems
 - Comparing manual and automated spreading processes
 - Recommended links for further information

The manual textile cutting process
 - Introduction
 - Characteristics of the manual cutting process
 - Notches and cloth marking drills
 - Accuracy problems in the manual cutting process

Manual cutting equipment in textile cutting operations
 - Introduction
 - The straight knife cutting machine
 - The round (rotary) knife cutting machine
 - The small round knife cutting machine
 - The band knife cutting machine
 - The fabric drilling machine
 - The hot notching machine
 - Recommended links

Automated cutting of textile materials
 - Introduction
 - Automated cutting systems and their main parts
 - Automated knife cutting systems
 - Knife cutting systems for textiles
 - Automated laser cutting systems
 - Automated water-jet cutting systems
 - Automated plasma cutting systems
 - Automated ultrasonic cutting systems
 - Multi-purpose cutters
 - Recommended links

Placement of equipment in the textile cutting room
 - Introduction
 - The placement of manual spreading and cutting equipment/ workstations in the cutting room
 - Placement of automated spreading and cutting equipment/workstations in the cutting room
 - Lay storage systems for automated cutting processes
 - Recommended links

Fusing of cut textile components
 - Introduction
 - The general characteristic of interlinings
 - Fusing presses and their main parts
 - Fusing quality problems and their prevention
 - Recommended links

Final work operations in the cutting process for textiles
 - Introduction
 - The causes of quality problems in cut components
 - The quality control of cut components
 - The re-cutting of faulty components
 - The numbering of cut components
 - The sorting and bundling of cut components

Manual marker making, spreading and cutting of striped fabrics
 - Introduction
 - Marker making for styles made from materials with stripes
 - The spreading and cutting process

Manual marker making, spreading and cutting of materials with check patterns
 - Introduction
 - Marker making for styles made from materials with check patterns
 - The spreading process

Manual marker making, spreading and cutting of fabrics with motif patterns
 - Introduction
 - Marker making in styles made from materials with motif patterns
 - The spreading and cutting processes

Manual marker making, spreading and cutting of fabrics with border patterns
 - Introduction
 - Marker making for styles made from materials with a border pattern
 - The spreading and cutting processes

Manual marker making, spreading and cutting of narrow lace
 - Introduction
 - The general characteristics of narrow lace
 - The characteristics of lingerie components cut from lace
 - Placement of the pattern on the components
 - Marker making of styles directly on fabric
 - The spreading process
 - The cutting process
 - Recommended links

Spreading and cutting of fabrics with pile
 - Introduction
 - Marker making for styles made from materials with pile
 - The spreading and cutting of fabrics with low-cut pile
 - The spreading and cutting of fabrics with high-cut pile

Problems in spreading and cutting of intricate fabrics and methods to prevent them
 - Introduction
 - Marker making directly on certain pattern
 - The precise coordination of patterns in all plies of a spread
 - Pin tables to prevent displacement of multi-ply spread
 - Automated systems to match patterns of intricate fabrics
 - Recommended links