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Joining textiles: Principles and applications

Edited by I Jones, TWI and G K Stylios, Heriot-Watt University, UK

Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles No. 110

 - provides an authoritative guide to the key theories and methods used to efficiently join fabrics
 - discusses the mechanics of stitching and sewing and problems related to sewn textiles, alongside mechanisms of sewing machines, and intelligent sewing systems
 - explores adhesive bonding of textiles, including principles, methods and applications, along with a review of bonding requirements in coating and laminating of textiles
 - also reviews applications of joining textiles as seams in non-iron shirts and car seat coverings, joining of wearable electronic components and technical textiles, and the joining techniques involved in nonwoven materials

Understanding the techniques for joining fabrics together in a way that considers durability, strength, leak-tightness, comfort in wear and the aesthetics of the joints is critical to the production of successful, structurally secure fabric products. Joining textiles: Principles and applications is an authoritative guide to the key theories and methods used to join fabrics efficiently.

Part one provides a clear overview of sewing technology. The mechanics of stitching, sewing and problems related to sewn textiles are discussed, along with mechanisms of sewing machines and intelligent sewing systems. Part two goes on to explore adhesive bonding of textiles, including principles, methods and applications, along with a review of bonding requirements in coating and laminating of textiles. Welding technologies are the focus of part three. Heat sealing, ultrasonic and dielectric textile welding are covered, as are laser seaming of fabrics and the properties and performance of welded or bonded seams. Finally, part four reviews applications of joining textiles such as seams in non-iron shirts and car seat coverings, joining of wearable electronic components and technical textiles, and the joining techniques involved in industrial and medical products including nonwoven materials.

With its distinguished editors and international team of expert contributors, Joining textiles is an important reference work for textile product manufacturers, designers and technologists, fibre scientists, textile engineers and academics working in this area.

Published in association with The Textile Institute

£180.00 / US$305.00 / €215.00

An e-book version of this title is available to purchase as part of a Collection or Pick n Mix or by Chapter. Visit Woodhead Publishing Online

About the editors

Ian Jones is Principal Research Engineer at TWI Ltd, UK.

George K. Stylios is Professor of Textiles and Director of RIFleX at Heriot-Watt University, UK.

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Contents

PART 1 SEWING TECHNOLOGY
PART 2 ADHESIVE BONDING OF TEXTILES
PART 3 WELDING TECHNOLOGIES
PART 4 APPLICATIONS OF JOINING TEXTILES

Types of fabric and their joining requirements
J McLoughlin and S Hayes, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK
 - Introduction
 - The main types of natural fibre
 - Synthetic fibres
 - High performance fibres
 - The process of creating fabrics from fibres
 - Woven fabric structures
 - Non-woven fabrics
 - Joining fabrics: seams and stitches
 - Stitching in practice: the case of high performance fabrics
 - Alternative methods of joining fabrics: welded seams
 - Ultrasonic welding
 - Conclusions
 - Acknowledgements
 - References

PART 1 SEWING TECHNOLOGY

The mechanics of stitching
G K Stylios, Heriot-Watt University, UK
 - Introduction
 - The principles of stitching
 - Conclusion
 - References
 - Appendix: nomenclature and notations

The sewing of textiles
J McLoughlin and S Hayes, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK
 - Introduction
 - Types of sewing machine
 - Machine feeding systems
 - Machine settings and sewing quality
 - Needle size and point type
 - Stitch classification and applications
 - Seam classification and applications
 - Sewing threads
 - Seaming quality problems
 - Seam pucker: causes and prevention
 - Thread breakage: causes and prevention
 - Needle breakage
 - Slipped/missed stitching: causes and prevention
 - Uneven seams: causes and prevention
 - Comparing welded and sewn seams
 - Future trends
 - References

Mechanisms of sewing machines
J McLoughlin and A Mitchell, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK
 - Introduction
 - The evolution of the sewing machine
 - Machine categorisation
 - Integrated stitching unit
 - Types of motors used in sewing machines
 - Three-thread overlock with a microprocessor
 - Mechanised sewing machines
 - Semi-automatic machines, automated workstations and transfer lines
 - Advantages and limitations of machine automation
 - Computer numerical control (CNC)
 - Achieving fully automated apparel manufacture through the application of robotics
 - Conclusion
 - Sources of further information and advice
 - References

Problems relating to sewing
M Carvalho, H Carvalho and F Silva University of Minho – Dep Textile Engineering, Portugal
 - Introduction
 - Seam elasticity
 - Seam failure
 - Seam problems related to material feeding
 - Problems in stitch formation
 - Seam pucker and other surface distortions
 - Future trends
 - Sources of further information and advice
 - References

The quality and performance of sewn seams
A Mukhopadhyay and V K Midha, National Institute of Technology Jalandhar, India
 - Introduction
 - Seam strength
 - Seam extensibility and recovery
 - Seam puckering
 - Seam slippage
 - Drape and bending
 - Seam grinning/gaping
 - Barrier properties of seams
 - Flame retardancy of seams
 - Degradation/damage of seams
 - Sources of further information and advice
 - References

Intelligent sewing systems for garment automation and robotics
G K Stylios, Heriot-Watt University, UK
 - Introduction
 - Developments in the automation of sewing
 - Operational principles of the intelligent sewability environment (ISE)
 - Conclusions
 - References

PART 2 ADHESIVE BONDING OF TEXTILES

Adhesive bonding of textiles: principles, types of adhesive and methods of use
E M Petrie, Independent Consultant, USA
 - Introduction to adhesives in the textile industry
 - Reasons for the success and failure of adhesives
 - Classification of adhesives used in textile applications
 - Bonding processes
 - Trends in adhesive types
 - References

Adhesives bonding of textiles: applications
E Stammen and K Dilger, Technical University Braunschweig, Germany
 - Introduction: textiles and adhesive joining
 - Adhesives and adhesive applications
 - Properties achieved by adhesive joining
 - Examples of adhesive use
 - Future trends
 - Acknowledgements
 - References

Bonding requirements in coating and laminating of textiles
E Shim, North Carolina State University, USA
 - Introduction
 - Materials and adhesives in coating and laminating
 - Coating process
 - Laminating process
 - Properties and applications of coated and laminated fabrics
 - Conclusion
 - References

PART 3 WELDING TECHNOLOGIES

The use of heat sealing, hot air and hot wedge to join textile materials
Ian Jones, TWI Ltd, UK
 - Introduction
 - Heat sealing of textiles: introduction
 - Equipment for heat sealing
 - Factors affecting the quality of heat sealing
 - Applications of heat sealing in textiles
 - Hot air wedge and hot wedge welding of textiles: introduction
 - Equipment for hot air/wedge welding
 - Factors affecting the quality of hot air/wedge welding
 - Applications of hot air/wedge welding in textiles
 - References

Ultrasonic and dielectric welding of textiles
Ian Jones, TWI Ltd, UK
 - Introduction
 - Ultrasonic welding: an introduction
 - Equipment for ultrasonic welding
 - Factors affecting the quality of ultrasound welding
 - Applications of ultrasound welding in textiles
 - Dielectric welding: an introduction
 - Equipment for dielectric welding
 - Factors affecting the quality of dielectric welding
 - Applications of dielectric welding
 - References

Laser seaming of fabrics
Ian Jones and A Patil, TWI Ltd, UK
 - Introduction
 - The laser welding process
 - The main processing parameters in laser welding and their effects
 - Equipment in laser welding
 - Textile materials that can be laser welded
 - Joint designs in laser welding
 - Monitoring and quality control in laser welding
 - Comparison between stitched and laser welded seams
 - Applications of laser welding
 - Future trends
 - References

Properties and performance of welded or bonded seams
E Vujasinovic and D Rogale University of Zagreb, Croatia
 - Introduction
 - Performance properties of seams
 - Quality evaluation of welded or bonded seams
 - Conclusion
 - References

PART 4 APPLICATIONS OF JOINING TEXTILES

The appearance of seams in non-iron shirts
G K Stylios, Heriot-Watt University, UK
 - Introduction
 - Wrinkle-free fabrics
 - Non-iron shirts and seam pucker
 - Interlinings as sewing aids
 - The stitching of non-iron shirts
 - Conclusion
 - Acknowledgements
 - Appendix: key terms and definitions

Seams in car seat coverings: properties and performance
S Kovačević and D Ujević, University of Zagreb, Croatia
 - Introduction
 - Materials and machines for sewing car seat covers
 - Influence of the seam on materials for making car seat covers
 - Seaming problems in car seat covers and their solution
 - Future trends
 - Conclusions
 - Acknowledgement
 - References

Joining of wearable electronic components
D J Tyler, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK
 - Introduction
 - Conducting fibres
 - Conducting yarns
 - Fabrics and composites
 - Connecting technologies
 - Requirements of electronic interconnects
 - Applications
 - Future trends
 - Sources of further information and advice
 - Acknowledgements
 - References

Joining of technical textiles with stringent seam demands
S Kovačević and D Ujević, University of Zagreb, Croatia
 - Introduction
 - Joining techniques for textiles with strict seam demands
 - Applications of stringent seams in technical textiles
 - Future trends
 - Sources of further information and advice
 - Acknowledgement
 - References

Nonwoven materials and joining techniques
A Pourmohammadi, University of Payame Noor, Iran
 - Introduction
 - Principles of nonwovens
 - Raw materials
 - Web formation technology
 - Web bonding technology
 - Nonwoven fabric finishing
 - Techniques for joining nonwoven materials
 - Future trend in the nonwoven market
 - Acknowledgements
 - References

Epilogue: joining textiles
I Jones, TWI Ltd, UK and G Stylios, Heriot-Watt University, UK