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Effect of mechanical and physical properties on fabric hand

Edited by H Behery, Professor Emeritus, Clemson University, USA

Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles No. 42

 - essential reading for all those working in apparel and fashion design, textile selection, fabric design and development and fabric manufacturers
 - covers statistical methods in evaluating hand and a comparison of hand evaluation in different cultures
 - looks at the effect processing has on fabric hand
 - edited by a leading authority in the field with contributions from a distinguished international panel

It is a consumer’s instinct to use the sense of touch when choosing a garment; to describe and assess the fabric quality and its suitability for a specific end use. The way that the fabric feels is described as its handle or ‘fabric hand’. Fabric hand can be evaluated by mechanical or electronic devices and by human judges using psychophysical or psychological techniques.

Effect of mechanical and physical properties on fabric hand thoroughly explores the techniques and issues involved in this difficult subject. It begins by looking at the concepts of fabric hand, with chapters on the developments in hand measurement, the application of statistical methods and the differences in fabric hand between different cultures. The second part is devoted to the different effects fiber, yarn and fabric can have on fabric hand. The effect of factors including fiber, yarn and woven fabrics are all outlined in separate chapters. Finally, the third section describes the effect that processing has on fabric hand. This includes processes such as wet processing and chemical finishing, mechanical finishing and refurbishing. Finally two important appendices are included for reference. Appendix A is from the Hand Evaluation and Standardization Committee and outlines the Kawabata system for standardization and analysis of hand evaluation. Appendix B describes the SiroFAST system of fabric assurance by simple testing developed by CSIRO, Australia.

With an international panel of distinguished contributors, Effect of mechanical and physical properties on fabric hand provides comprehensive coverage on the subject. It will be an essential work for those researching and working in apparel and fashion design, textile selection, fabric designers and developers, manufacturers, and those interested in fabric dyeing and finishing.

Published in association with The Textile Institute

£165.00 / US$280.00 / €200.00

An e-book version of this title is available to purchase as part of a Collection or Pick n Mix or by Chapter. Visit Woodhead Publishing Online

About the editor

Hassan Behery is Emeritus Professor of Textile Science at Clemson University, USA. He earned his Ph.D. in textiles from Manchester University, UK and a M.S. in mechanical engineering from Alexandria University, Egypt. His research interests include engineering, evaluation and comparison of fabric hand, fiber science, fiber and yarn processing and nonwovens.

Titles which may also be of interest:
Fabric testing
Friction in textile materials
Physical testing of textiles

Contents

PART 1 UNDERSTANDING FABRIC HAND
PART 2 EFFECT OF FIBER, YARN AND FACTORS ON FABRIC HAND
PART 3 EFFECT OF PROCESSING ON FABRIC HAND
PART 4 APPENDICES

Introduction
H M Behery, Clemson University, USA
 - Historical
 - Definition and concept of fabric hand
 - Fabric hand attributes and quality descriptors
 - Development of fabric hand evaluation
 - Elements relating to fabric hand
 - Application of statistical methods in assessing fabric hand
 - Comparison of fabric hand assessments in different cultures
 - Effect of performance and refurbishing on fabric hand
 - References

PART 1 UNDERSTANDING FABRIC HAND

Concepts and understanding of fabric hand
A De Boos, Australian Wool Innovation Limited, Australia
 - Introduction
 - Subjective evaluation of fabric hand
 - Objective evaluation of fabric hand
 - Future trends
 - References

Development in measurement and evaluation of fabric hand
Y El-Mogahzy, F S Kilinc and M Hassan, Auburn University, USA
 - Introduction
 - Subjectivity and objectivity in fabric hand
 - Developments in fabric hand objective evaluation
 - ELMOGAHZY-KILINC hand method
 - Conclusion
 - References

Application of statistical methods in evaluation of fabric hand
J Militky, Technical University Liberec, Czech Republic
 - Introduction
 - Subjective evaluation of the fabric hand
 - Analysis of factors affecting fabric hand
 - Prediction of subjective hand
 - Conclusion
 - Acknowledgments
 - References

Comparison of fabric hand evaluation in different cultures
H M Behery, Clemson University, USA
 - Introduction
 - Effect of culture, language and male vs female on fabric hand evaluation and their interaction (USA and Korea)
 - International comparison of fabric hand (Australia, China, Hong Kong, India, Japan, Korea, New Zealand, Taiwan, United Kingdom and United States of America)
 - Fabric hand equation for Australia, New Zealand, India and USA
 - Comparison between KES-FB and FAST systems in determination of characteristics of fabric hand
 - English version (translation) of the Japanese description of Primary Hand Value
 - Measurement of fabric hand by different methods
 - Results of fabric hand evaluation by different methods
 - Conclusion of the comparison of fabric hand assessments between US and Japan measurement by different method
 - Fabric hand/globalization interaction in the textile industry
 - References

PART 2 EFFECT OF FIBER, YARN AND FACTORS ON FABRIC HAND

Effect of fiber factors on fabric hand
M Lynn Realff, A Cascio, Georgia Tech, USA
 - Introduction
 - Describing fibers
 - Mechanical properties
 - Chemical modification of fibers for improved fabric hand
 - Crystallinity in fibers
 - Future trends
 - Sources of further information and advice
 - References

Effect of yarn factors on fabric hand
H M Behery, Clemson University, USA
 - Introduction
 - Yarn types
 - Effect of yarn structure on fabric hand
 - Fundamental structural features of yarn
 - Comparison of hand of fabrics produced with air jet and ring spun yarns
 - Subjective hand evaluation of fabrics
 - Assessment of hand property of fabrics woven from various types of staple-fiber yarn
 - Conclusions
 - References

Effect of woven fabrics on the fabric hand of cotton and CO/PES fabrics assessed on the Instron tensile tester
I Frydrych, Technical University of Łódź, and M Matusiak, Institute of Textile Architecture, Poland
 - Introduction
 - Description of measurement procedure on the Instron tensile tester
 - General hand factor (GHF) of fabrics based on the mechanical parameters from the Instron tester
 - Analysis of influence of the weft density, weave, and finishing type on the general hand factor
 - Effect of weave, weft density, raw material content, and a type of finishing on the mechanical fabric hand parameters
 - References

PART 3 EFFECT OF PROCESSING ON FABRIC HAND

Effect of wet processing and chemical finishing on fabric hand
C Tomasino, North Carolina State University, USA
 - Introduction
 - Dyeing and finishing
 - Special topics
 - Literature review
 - Future trends
 - Sources of further information and advice
 - References

Effect of mechanical finishing on fabric hand
C Tomasino, North Carolina State University, USA
 - Introduction
 - Calendering
 - Compacting
 - Raising (napping, sueding)
 - Shearing
 - Polishing
 - Corduroy cutters
 - Decating
 - Mechanical hand breaking (softening)
 - Interrelation between fabric mechanical properties and finishing process
 - Future trends
 - Sources of further information
 - References

Effect of refurbishing on fabric hand
A De Boos, Australian Wool Innovation Limited, Australia
 - Introduction
 - Refurbishment of traditional fabrics
 - Role of fabric history/finish
 - Refurbishment of newer fabric types
 - Future trends
 - References

PART 4 APPENDICES

Appendix A The standardization and analysis of hand evaluation (second edition)
S Kawabata, courtesy of The Hand Evaluation and Standardization Committee, The Textile Machinery Society, Japan
 - History of the committee
 - Selection of the standard samples for hand evaluation
 - How to use The H.E.S.C
 - Standard of Hand Evaluation
 - Analysis of hand evaluation
 - Hand evaluation in the future
 - References

Appendix B, SiroFAST fabric assurance by simple testing
A De Boos, D Tester, CSIRO, Australia and H Behery, Clemson University, USA
 - Introduction
 - SiroFAST - Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing
 - Application in fabric manufacture and finishing