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Handbook of natural fibres: Types, properties and factors affecting breeding and cultivation (Volume 1)

Edited by R Kozlowski, Institute of Natural Fibres (INF), Poland

Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles No. 118

 - provides an essential guide to a wide range of natural fibres and highlights key techniques for their improvement
 - reviews key types and fundamental properties of natural textile fibres, addressing the production, identification and testing of a range of cotton, bast, silk and wool fibres
 - explores the improvement of natural fibre properties and production through breeding and cultivation, beginning with a discussion of fibrous flax and cotton
 - the wider impact of natural textile production is discussed, using wild silk enterprise programs as an example

Growing awareness of environmental issues has led to increasing demand for goods produced from natural products, including natural fibres. The two-volume Handbook of natural fibres is an indispensible tool in understanding the diverse properties and applications of these important materials. Volume 1: Types, properties and factors affecting breeding and cultivation is an essential guide to a wide range of natural fibres, and highlights key techniques for their improvement.

Part one reviews key types and fundamental properties of natural textile fibres. The production, identification and testing of a range of cotton, bast, silk and wool fibres are discussed, alongside bioengineered natural textile fibres. Part two goes on to explore the improvement of natural fibre properties and production through breeding and cultivation, beginning with a discussion of fibrous flax and cotton. Improved natural fibre production through the prevention of fungal growth is explored, along with the use of genetic engineering and biotechnology to enhance desirable characteristics. Finally, the wider impact of natural textile production is discussed, using wild silk enterprise programs as an example.

With its distinguished editor and international team of expert contributors, the two volumes of the Handbook of natural fibres are essential texts for professionals and academics in textile science and technology.

Published in association with The Textile Institute

£175.00 / US$300.00 / €210.00

An e-book version of this title is available to purchase as part of a Collection or Pick n Mix or by Chapter. Visit Woodhead Publishing Online

About the editor

Professor Ryszard M. Kozlowski is the award-winning former Director of the Polish Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants. He is an Honorary Fellow of the Textile Institute, Editor-in-Chief of the Journal of Natural Fibres, Scientific Advisor to the Institute for Engineering of Polymer Materials and Dyes, and Doctor Honoris Causa of the Pontifical Catholic University of Ibarra, Ecuador. Professor Kozłowski is also Coordinator of both ESCORENA (the European System of Cooperative Research Networks in Agriculture and the FAO/ESCORENA European Cooperative Research Network on Flax and other Bast Plants. He is the author/co-author of over 300 publications, including 26 books and 25 patents.

Titles which may also be of interest:
Cotton
Bast and other plant fibres
Advances in wool technology
Wool
Silk, mohair, cashmere and other luxury fibres
Silk

Contents

PART 1 FUNDAMENTALS: TYPES OF FIBRE, PROPERTIES, IDENTIFICATION AND TESTING
PART 2 IMPROVING NATURAL FIBRE PRODUCTION THROUGH BREEDING AND CULTIVATION

Introduction to natural textile fibres
R Kozłowski and M Mackiewicz-Talarczyk, Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants (INF&MP), Poland
 - Introduction
 - Historical background of natural fibres
 - Handbook of natural fibres
 - Sources of further information and advice
 - References

PART 1 FUNDAMENTALS: TYPES OF FIBRE, PROPERTIES, IDENTIFICATION AND TESTING

Cotton fibres
M Dochia and C Sirghie “Aurel Vlaicu” University of Arad, Romania; R M Kozłowski , Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants (INF&MP) and Z Roskwitalski, Izba Bawełny Gdynia, Poland
 - Introduction
 - The cotton plant
 - Cotton fibre structure
 - Physical properties of cotton
 - Measuring cotton quality
 - Future trends
 - Acknowledgment
 - References

Bast fibres: jute
S Roy and L B Lutfar, International Jute Study Group (IJSG), Bangladesh
 - Introduction to jute
 - Types of jute
 - Fibre morphology
 - Chemical composition
 - Properties of jute
 - Typical applications
 - Conclusions
 - Sources of further information and advice
 - References

Bast fibres: ramie
S Roy and L B Lutfar, International Jute Study Group (IJSG), Bangladesh
 - Introduction to raime
 - Types of ramie
 - Fibre morphology
 - Properties of ramie
 - Typical applications
 - Conclusions
 - Sources of further information and advice
 - References

Bast fibres: flax
R Kozłowski and M Mackiewicz-Talarczyk, Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants (INF&MP), Poland and A M Allam, Expert/Advisor, Egypt
 - Introduction
 - Flax plant morphology
 - Structure and chemical composition of flax
 - Flax harvesting
 - Degumming
 - Scutching
 - Hackling (combing)
 - Cottonisation
 - Spinning
 - Bleaching and dyeing
 - Finishing
 - Recapitulation
 - Conclusions and future trends
 - Sources of future information and advice
 - References

Bast fibres: hemp cultivation and production
M R L Horne, TEAM Research, UK
 - Introduction
 - The hemp plant
 - Hemp cultivation
 - Retting
 - Fibre extraction
 - Hemp fibre spinning
 - References

Silk fibres
K M Babu, Bapuji Institute of Engineering and Technology, India
 - Introduction
 - Silk industry
 - Microstructure and appearance
 - Amino acid composition
 - Properties of silk
 - Applications of silk
 - Future trends
 - Conclusions
 - Sources of further information and advice
 - References

Wool fibres
H Kuffner, International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO), Belgium and C Popescu, DWI an der RWTH Aachen e.V., Germany
 - Introduction
 - The effects of the economy on wool
 - Wool production
 - Chemistry and morphology
 - Properties of wool
 - Industrial usage of wool
 - Branding and consumer friendliness
 - References

Mohair, cashmere and other animal hair fibres
L Hunter, CSIR and Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University (NMMU), South Africa
 - Introduction
 - Alpaca
 - Angora rabbit hair
 - Camel
 - Cashgora
 - Cashmere
 - Guanaco
 - Llama
 - Mohair
 - Musk ox
 - Vicuña
 - Yak
 - Other animal hair fibres
 - Acknowledgments
 - References

Bioengineered natural textile fibres
K Wielgus, K Grajek and M Szalata, Institute of Natural Fibres & Medicinal Plants (INF&MP) and R Słomski, Poznań University of Life Sciences, Poland
 - Introduction
 - Bacterial cellulose
 - Enzymatic treatment of cellulose
 - Future trends
 - Conclusions
 - References
 - Appendix: abbreviations

Identification of natural textile fibres
R K Nayak, R Padhye and S Fergusson, RMIT University, Australia
 - Introduction
 - Natural textile fibres
 - Identification methods
 - Practical approach
 - Forensic analysis
 - Future trends
 - References
 - Appendix: list of abbreviations and description

Testing of natural textile fibres
J Harwood, De Montfort University and R Harwood, Copernicus Textile Solutions Ltd, UK
 - Introduction
 - Key issues in testing natural fibres
 - Test methods for natural fibres
 - Measuring the physical properties of natural fibres
 - Chemical properties
 - Instrumental methods
 - Future trends
 - Sources of further information and advice
 - References
 - Appendix: list of abbreviations

PART 2 IMPROVING NATURAL FIBRE PRODUCTION THROUGH BREEDING AND CULTIVATION

Developments in fibrous flax breeding and cultivation
M Pavelek, E Tejklová, M Ondřej and M Vrbová, AGRITEC, Czech Republic
 - Introduction
 - Key issues in fibre flax breeding and cultivating
 - Methods of flax and linseed breeding
 - Conventional methods of breeding
 - Unconventional methods of breeding
 - Modern trends in flax and linseed breeding
 - Sources of further information and advice
 - References
 - Appendix: abbreviations

Cotton breeding and agro-technology
J K Dever, Texas AgriLife Research/Texas A&M System, USA
 - Introduction
 - Genetic review
 - Breeding methodology
 - Agronomy and physiology
 - Breeding targets
 - Future trends
 - Conclusions
 - Sources of further information and advice
 - References
 - Appendix: list of abbreviations

Fibre flax cultivation in sustainable agriculture
K Heller, P Baraniecki and M Praczyk, Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants (INF&MP), Poland
 - Introduction to fibre flax for sustainable agriculture
 - Flax growth cycle
 - The use of cultivars in flax breeding
 - The importance of crop rotation
 - Flax cultivation requirements
 - Flax harvest
 - Future trends in fibre flax growing for sustainable agriculture
 - References

Prevention of fungal growth in natural fibres
J Walentowska Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants (INF&MP) and R Kozłowski, Institute for Engineering of Polymer Materials and Dyes (IMPIB), Poland
 - Introduction
 - Key issues of fungi growth, especially mildew, in natural fibres
 - Methods of preventing fungi growth, especially mildew, in natural fibres
 - Future trends
 - Conclusion
 - Sources of further information and advice
 - References

Genetic engineering and biotechnology of natural textile fiber plants
K Wielgus and and M Szalata, Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal Plants (INF&MP), M Szalata and R Słomski, Poznań University of Life Sciences, Poland
 - Introduction: global status of commercialized biotech crops
 - Fibrous biotech crops
 - Future trends
 - Conclusion
 - Sources of further information and advice
 - References
 - Appendix: abbreviations

Wild silk: wild silk enterprise programs to alleviate poverty and protect habitats
C L Craig, Harvard University, USA and Conservation through Poverty Alleviation, International, USA; R S Weber, Conservation through Poverty Alleviation International, USA; H Akai, Tokoyo University of Agriculture, Japan
 - Introduction
 - Definition of silk
 - Silk structure and function
 - Wild silk enterprise
 - Wild silk enterprise versus alternative conservation and poverty alleviation programs in Madagascar
 - Conclusion
 - References